The standard wheel nut across the production run was a conventional hexagonal type in a zinc or cadmium-plated finish, functional, but both finishes show surface corrosion over time, particularly on a car used in wet conditions or stored outdoors. On a car that has been in service for decades, the original wheel nuts have typically been on and off enough times to be well past their best, with damaged threads, rounded faces, and surface pitting that makes future removal difficult and compromises the appearance of even a well-presented wheel. Standard steel nuts can also bond to the wheel stud through corrosion, making wheel removal difficult or impossible without damaging the stud.
Upgraded Wheel Fixings
Stainless steel and chrome wheel nuts maintain their finish indefinitely and look considerably smarter against a clean wheel face. Beyond appearance, they offer a genuine practical advantage, as a rusted-on wheel nut at the roadside during a puncture change can leave the car stranded. They are also less likely to gall on the wheel studs during tightening, as the smoother surface finish reduces friction between nut and stud, and a light application of copper grease on the stud threads before fitting further reduces the risk of seizing.
Selecting the Correct Nut
When selecting replacement wheel nuts it is important to confirm the correct thread specification and seat type for the wheel fitted. The standard steel disc wheel and Rostyle wheel use a conventional taper seat nut. The MGC's five-stud steel disc wheel requires ten nuts for a complete set, five per wheel. The Jubilee Edition alloy wheel from 1975 required a specific sleeved wheel nut with retaining washer.
Aftermarket alloy wheels vary in their seat type and thread pitch depending on the specific wheel, so the correct nut must be used to ensure it seats correctly, as an incorrect nut on an alloy wheel risks working loose in use.