For owners who wish to retain the original lever-arm suspension design while improving control, uprated lever-arm dampers offer a firmer, better-valved alternative to standard-specification units. They bolt directly into the original mounting positions, preserving the factory appearance and the structural role of the front damper as the top suspension link, making them an ideal choice for cars kept close to original specification.
Front Lever Arm Dampers
At the front, the lever-arm damper performs a dual role: it provides the damping and forms the upper link of the suspension, locating the top of the kingpin. Any front damper must therefore be in sound condition for both safe handling and correct geometry. An uprated front lever-arm damper provides stiffer valving for reduced body roll and more precise control, while retaining this essential structural function, something a simple telescopic shock cannot do without a conversion bracket.
Rear Lever Arm Dampers
At the rear, the lever-arm damper controls the leaf-sprung axle. Uprated rear units provide firmer damping to match uprated springs or a lowered set-up, controlling axle movement more tightly over poor surfaces. As with the front, they retain the original mounting and appearance.
Uprated Versus Conversion
Uprated lever-arm dampers are the choice for owners wanting improved control without altering the car's original engineering or appearance, and are simpler to fit than a telescopic conversion. Owners seeking the maximum improvement in damping consistency may instead consider a front telescopic conversion, but the uprated lever-arm route preserves originality and is fully reversible.
Ordering Considerations
Front and rear lever-arm dampers are different and are handed left and right, so positions must be specified. Dampers should always be renewed or uprated in pairs across an axle to maintain balanced handling. Confirm the suspension layout of the car, as the early and later Midget suspension arrangements differ.