The steering system is a rack and pinion arrangement providing a direct mechanical connection between the steering wheel and front wheels. Two steering rack designs were used across production, and the steering column changed from a non-collapsible to a collapsible energy-absorbing type in 1971 in line with contemporary safety legislation.
Steering Rack Variants
The earlier steering rack was fitted to all cars up to 1971, covering chassis numbers up to HAN9-72528/GAN4-61166 and the subsequent range through to GAN5-114486 (with minor bracket variations within this period). The later rack was introduced from 1972 and used through to the end of 1500 production. The two racks differ in their internal specification, mounting brackets, track rod ends, and gaiter kits, none of these components are interchangeable between the two rack types.
Reconditioned Exchange Racks
Reconditioned exchange steering racks are available for both rack types. The rack is a precision component that should not be dismantled by the non-specialist, internal adjustments to rack end float and pinion mesh require specific knowledge and measurement equipment. Exchange reconditioning provides a properly set-up rack with new seals, bushes, and correct preload settings, ready for direct installation.
Track Rod Ends and Gaiters
The earlier rack and the later rack each have their own track rod ends and gaiter kits, identified by separate part numbers, and the components are not cross-compatible. When ordering, the rack type fitted to the car must be confirmed, fitting an incorrect track rod end will not seat correctly in the rack, resulting in poor steering geometry and rapid wear.
Track Rod End Service
Track rod ends are a routine wear item and should be checked at every service interval. A worn track rod end causes vague steering, uneven tyre wear, and represents a serious safety concern even though Midgets are now MOT-exempt under the 40-year rolling exemption rule. Track rod end boots should be inspected at the same time, a split boot allows water and dirt to enter the ball joint, which accelerates wear dramatically. Track rod end boot clips should be renewed whenever the boots are disturbed.
Rack Gaiters
Rack gaiters seal the rack ends against water, road salt, and grit ingress. A split or perished gaiter is the most common cause of premature rack failure on classic cars stored or used in damp conditions, water enters the rack, washes the lubricant away, and rapidly destroys the rack internals. Gaiters should be inspected at every service and renewed immediately if any sign of cracking or splitting is found.
Steering Column Variants
Two column types were used. The non-collapsible column (pre-1971) consists of an inner and outer tube with upper and lower bushes. Several variants were produced within this type, distinguished by whether they accept a steering lock. The collapsible energy-absorbing column (1971 onward) is designed to telescope in a frontal impact, reducing the risk of steering column injury to the driver.
This is a safety-critical component that must not be modified or repaired, any damage or distortion requires complete replacement.
Column Bushes and Seals
The column bushes (upper and lower) and the column seal are wear items. Play in the column bushes causes imprecise steering and may be audible as a clicking or knocking from the column area when steering on rough surfaces. The column seal prevents water and debris entering the cabin through the column aperture in the bulkhead.
Column to Rack Connection
The column connects to the rack via a clamp bolt at the lower universal joint. Correct alignment between the column and rack pinion is critical, if the rack is fitted with the pinion not in line with the column, lateral pressure will cause premature wear on the rack bushes and bearings. The correct procedure is to leave the rack mounting clamp bolts loose until the column is fitted and aligned, then tighten the column pinch bolt first, followed by the rack mounting clamps.
Steering Lock
A steering lock was introduced from 1971, fitted to the column and secured by shear bolts. These bolts are designed to break off during installation to prevent the lock being removed by a thief. Removing the shear bolt stubs for lock replacement is a common workshop challenge, the most reliable method is to place a centre punch near the outer edge of the sheared bolt face, then angle and strike it to rotate the bolt anticlockwise. Drilling is not recommended as the drill tends to wander into the softer lock casting, damaging the column.